Step by step DC-DC Charger install

Step by step DC-DC Charger install

FIRST-TIMER'S GUIDE TO INSTALLING A DC-DC CHARGER

Installing a DC-DC charger in your vehicle is an awesome weekend project that’ll take your camping 12V setup to the next level! While it can be one of the more in-depth installs, requiring some tools and DIY know-how it’s definitely not out of the realms of a beginner! Like most things it’s important you take your time and use the right tools and methods so that your install not only looks good, but performs properly and lasts the test of time!



PARTS REQUIRED

  • Adventure Kings DC-DC Charger Mk2
  • AGM Battery
  • 50A Wiring Kit (optional)
  • 12V Control Box (optional)

TOOLS REQUIRED

Sockets, spanners, Allen keys Wire crimpers, wire cutters, multi meter or test light, electric drill)

MATERIALS REQUIRED

  • ~6m of 8AWG or 6AWG twin core wiring (if you’re not using 50A Wiring Kit)
  • Thing gauge wire for connecting ignition wire
  • Wire connectors/crimps, small gauge fuse holder and fuse heat shrink, electrical tape, cable ties
  • M8 Eye Terminals (if you’re not using the 50A wiring kit, for connecting wiring to battery)
  • M10 Eye Terminals (optional, for connecting wiring to 12V Control Box)
  • 50A fuses and fuse holders

TIME REQUIRED

4-6 hours

PROJECT OVERVIEW

STEP 1

Unbox and lay out all your components to check you have everything you need - of course every setup and vehicle layout will require specific components and tools!

STEP 2

Is to wire up the DC-DC charger. Read the manual to double check the function of every wire and where to connect them, then you’ll need to extend them to suit your setup. In this video I’m fitting the DC-DC charger onto the 12V control box, so I extend the relevant wires out to reach the terminals and connectors inside.

STEP 3

When extending each wire ensure you’re using a high quality crimp tool to get a solid connection - then cover the join with heatshrink to prevent damage or the possibility of a short circuit. IF you’re fitting a 25A model to the 12V control box, you can easily connect the green solar wire to the positive input of the quick connect plug on the bottom left of the 12V Control Box by adding a female 6.3mm spade terminal

STEP 4

Feed the wires through the front of the 12V Control Box - you can open up the hole with a step drill if you need more space, and use a spare grommet from one of the sides of the 12V Control Box to protect the wires from the edges. Once all the wiring is inside the box, double check all the terminals will reach the posts / connectors.

STEP 5

Mount the DC-DC charger to the front of the control box. Position it correctly, mark out where the mounting holes need to be and then drill them out. You can use nuts, bolts and washers, rivets or rivnuts depending on what you prefer or what you have available. Clean up any swarf or mess as you go.

STEP 6

Feed the wires back through the grommet and then tightly mount the DC-DC charger. Following that, open up the 12V Control Box.

STEP 7

Connect all the wiring to the relevant points inside the 12V Control Box. If you’re connecting directly to an auxiliary battery, your brown wire will go to battery positive (and requires a fuse holder in line) while the thick brown wire will go battery earth. You’ll also need to connect up the battery selector wire - you can use the loose tail left by fitting the solar wire to the quick connect plug to make this easy. If you’re connecting direct to battery positive add a fuse holder on this wire too.

STEP 8

Mount the 12V Control Box to your desired location - simply drill through the back of the box and the surface you’re mounting it to and then bolt it on.

STEP 9

Disconnect the earth from your starter battery (so nothing is live). Run the main power wires from your DC-DC charger to your starter and auxiliary batteries. If using a 50A Wiring Kit, remove the 50A fuse.

STEP 10

Add terminals to both ends to suit your setup and ensure you add a 50A fuse holder to each wire run as close as possible to the battery’s positive terminals (only at aux end for 50A Wiring Kit). Make sure when you’re running your wiring you avoid any sharp, hot or moving parts and you route them in such a way that they’re tucked out of the way and won’t get caught and ripped out while you’re driving!

STEP 11

Run the blue wire from an ignition source back with a fuse holder, to the DC-DC charger and wire it up. You can find an ignition source behind the dash, in the fuse box under the bonnet or in some case in the back of your vehicle with a 12V socket. If you’re running it under the bonnet, it’s a good idea to do it at the same time as your main power and earth wires from the starter battery. Add corrugated tubing and cable ties to protect the wires and keep them in position.

STEP 12

Connect the ignition wire on the DC-DC charger up to your ignition wiring and then connect the main power and earth leads from your starter battery to your DC-DC charger. If you’re using a 12V Control Box that means connecting to the M10 terminal posts inside the box, otherwise you’d need to connect the red wire from the DC-DC charger to the positive terminal of the starter battery and the black wire from the negative terminal to negative terminal of both batteries, or the chassis ground if you’ve run your vehicle with that setup.

STEP 13

Ensure you’ve connect the thin black temperature sense wire up to the negative terminal of the auxiliary battery - don’t cut this wire and be careful not to snap the terminal when installing as the unit will not function without it. If it doesn’t reach the battery terminal, simply bundle up the wires and tuck it out of the way so it reads ambient temperature

STEP 14

With everything connected up, add the fuses into the system on all wires and check the DCDC Charger indicator LEDs are lighting up. Now all that’s left to do is give it a test with your solar panel or by starting up the vehicle!


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